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How to Prepare for a Model Casting or Open Call

By: Adriana Escalante Photography

PREPARED. STRATEGIC. READY.

If you have a model casting or model open call coming up, getting invited—or deciding to attend—is only step one.

Showing up prepared is what matters next.

As a professional fashion and beauty photographer in the DC/DMV area, I work with models regularly, from newer talent building their first portfolio to experienced models who need updated digitals, beauty images, or stronger work for their book.

And one thing I see again and again is this:

A model can have an incredible look and still walk into an opportunity completely unprepared.

 

Model casting in progress. Models waiting in line to be called.

I was recently following an industry conversation about a casting where dozens of models showed up, yet many apparently weren't prepared for what was expected of them.

The comments were just as interesting.

Models, agencies, and other industry professionals debated everything from comp cards and makeup to runway walks, sample sizing, wardrobe, and whether models are receiving enough development before being sent to castings.

And it made me think:

Maybe we need to talk more about what “come prepared” actually means.

...because a model casting is essentially a job interview.

And, yes, your appearance matters... modeling is a visual industry.

But casting directors and clients are also paying attention to whether you can follow instructions, whether your materials are current, how you move, how you present yourself, and whether you understand the job you're auditioning for.

So, let's break it down.

What Is a Model Casting or Open Call?

A model casting gives an agency, designer, brand, casting director, photographer, or production team an opportunity to evaluate models for a particular job or future work.

You may be asked to:

  • Introduce yourself

  • Provide your measurements

  • Show your comp card

  • Show your portfolio

  • Take digitals

  • Walk

  • Pose

  • Try on clothing

  • Follow direction

A model open call is generally an opportunity to be evaluated without an individual invitation. An agency or casting team announces when prospective models can come in and be seen.

But “open call” does NOT mean:

Show up however you want and see what happens.

You still need to prepare.

Fashion models walk a runway in designer looks, including a front-facing model, a model walking away, and a model in a white gown.

1. READ the Casting Instructions

Yes. READ is capitalized for a reason.

Before you start worrying about what to wear or practicing your walk, go back and read the casting notice carefully.

Then read it again.

Look for:

  • Age requirements

  • Height requirements

  • Measurements

  • Sample sizing

  • Type of model requested

  • Wardrobe instructions

  • Shoe requirements

  • Makeup instructions

  • Comp card requirements

  • Digitals

  • Experience requirements

  • Arrival and check-in information

If the casting gives you specific instructions, follow them.

Don't decide that your interpretation is better. Being able to follow direction is part of being professional.

And if something isn't clear? ASK.

 

2. Research the Agency, Designer, Brand, or Client

Do you know who you're casting for?

You should.

If that information is available, spend some time researching before you walk into the room.

  • Look at the agency website.
  • Look at the models they represent.
  • Look at recent campaigns.

If you're casting for a designer, look at previous collections and runway shows.

If it's a commercial brand, look at its advertising.

You're not trying to turn yourself into someone else. You're trying to understand the client and the assignment.

A luxury runway casting is very different from a commercial lifestyle job, and a beauty campaign is different from e-commerce.

Likewise, a fit modeling job is different from editorial.

 

3. Know What Type of Modeling You're Casting For

Not every modeling job requires the same skills.

  • Runway.
  • Commercial.
  • Lifestyle.
  • Beauty.
  • Editorial.
  • E-commerce.
  • Fit modeling.

They are NOT interchangeable.

For example, someone with a pageant background may be very comfortable walking in heels.

That's great.

But a pageant walk and a fashion runway walk are not necessarily the same thing.

The same applies to posing.

Dramatic editorial posing might look fantastic in a fashion story and completely wrong in a commercial lifestyle campaign.

This is why understanding your modeling market is so important.

Your goal is not to prove that you can do absolutely everything.

Your goal is to show that you understand what this particular client needs.

Understanding the client helps you understand what they may need from you.
Three models pose in simple black tops and jeans or fitted pants against neutral studio backgrounds for model casting and digitals examples.

4. What Should You Wear to a Model Casting?

First rule:

If the casting provides wardrobe instructions, follow them.

If they don't, simplicity is usually your friend.

Think:

  • Clean

  • Fitted

  • Neutral

  • Uncomplicated

Casting professionals need to be able to see your proportions and movement.

These are big no-nos:

  • Oversized sweaters,
  • bulky jackets,
  • giant accessories,
  • chunky shoes,
  • complicated layers, or
  • clothing that hides your body can make that difficult.

You may hear people refer to a traditional “model casting uniform,” often consisting of a fitted black top with fitted jeans or pants.

Does every casting require all black? No.

The larger point is this:

Do not make casting professionals work to figure out what you actually look like.

They should notice YOU.

Not your outfit. 

 

Three women of different ages and skin tones pose in simple black tops against a light studio background for clean model digitals.

5. Your Makeup Should Be a Blank Canvas

This one deserves its own section because I see this misunderstood constantly.

Casting professionals usually want to see a blank canvas.

That means your makeup should be almost nonexistent unless you have specifically been instructed otherwise.

Think:

  • Lip gloss

  • Barely any mascara, if any

  • A tiny amount of concealer over a blemish if needed

That's it...

  • No heavy foundation.
  • No contour.
  • No false lashes.
  • No dramatic eyeshadow.
  • No full glam.

Casting needs to see your actual skin, facial structure, features, and potential.

The point isn't to show them how beautiful you can look after a full makeup application.

They need to see what they're starting with.

Blank canvas. Period.

 

6. Bring an UPDATED Comp Card and Digitals

If you're attending professional model castings and open calls, you should have an updated comp card.

Your comp card is essentially your modeling business card.

It should accurately represent what you look like RIGHT NOW.

Not two years ago.
Not before you changed your hair.
Not before your measurements changed.
Right now.

Your measurements should also be accurate.

And your model digitals need to be current because agencies and clients often use them to evaluate your natural appearance without elaborate styling, lighting, makeup, or retouching.

If you need to update yours, you can learn more about my Model Digitals sessions.

Your materials should make it easier for casting to evaluate you—not create confusion about who is standing in front of them.

Sample comp cards of a blonde model and black model, digitals, polaroid samples.

Comp Card Samples of Non-Agency-Represented Models

7. Practice Your Walk BEFORE a Runway Casting

If you're attending a runway casting, the casting room should not be the first time you discover whether you know how to walk.

Practice.

Better yet, get feedback from someone who understands fashion runway.  

One resource I personally like is Model Like Yulia on YouTube. Yulia is one of my favorite modern models to watch, and her channel is a great place to study runway movement, posture, confidence, and the small details that can make a walk feel much more polished.

Sometimes a walk doesn't require months of dramatic changes.

It may need a few corrections:

  • Posture.
  • Pace.
  • Arm placement.
  • Where you're looking.
  • Your turn.
  • How you carry the clothing.

Small adjustments can make a huge difference.

But those adjustments need to happen BEFORE the casting.

 

8. Understand Sample Sizing

This is another topic that can quickly become misunderstood. If a runway casting lists specific measurements or sample sizing, it often means the garments have already been produced.

Those clothes need to fit the model who is booked.

That is a requirement of that particular job.

It is NOT a statement about someone's worth, attractiveness, or whether they “should” be a model.

Different modeling categories require different things. Commercial and lifestyle modeling can have very different expectations from traditional runway.

Beauty modeling has its own requirements. Fit modeling is extremely measurement-specific.

Some brands intentionally cast a wide range of sizes, heights, ages, and appearances.

That's why you have to read the casting.

You will not be right for every job.

No model is right for every job.

 

9. Don't Overdo It

Newer models sometimes get nervous and think they need to do MORE to stand out.

  • More makeup.
  • More accessories.
  • More personality.
  • More posing.
  • More dramatic clothing.
  • More walking.
  • More everything.

But experienced models often understand something that takes time to learn:

Sometimes less is more.

Casting doesn't need your entire modeling career performed in three minutes.

They need enough information to understand whether you could work for their project.

Give them that.

Five female fashion models walk the runway in layered designer looks, showing different styling and runway presentation.

 

10. Professionalism Starts Before You Walk Into the Casting Room

Don't assume you're only being evaluated once your name is called.

People notice things.

  • Were you respectful to the person checking you in?
  • Did you arrive on time?
  • Were you listening when instructions were given?
  • Were you scrolling through your phone instead?
  • Were you impatient?
  • Were you respectful toward the other models?
  • Did you bring what you were told to bring?

The client isn't only asking:

“Does this person look right?”

They're also asking:

“Can we work with this person?”

A strong model who is professional, prepared, adaptable, and able to take direction is valuable.

 

11. If You're Represented, Communicate With Your Agency

One of the most interesting debates in the industry conversation I mentioned earlier was:

Whose responsibility is it to make sure a model is prepared?

The agency?

Or the model?

My answer?

Both.

Agencies should provide development and direction when appropriate.

But models also need to take responsibility for their careers.

If your agent sends you to a casting and you don't understand something, ask.

  • “What should I wear?”
  • “Do I need my comp card?”
  • “What shoes should I bring?”
  • “What kind of walk are they looking for?”
  • “Do I need new digitals?”
  • Your agency sees your market in real time.

Use that resource.

And that communication shouldn't stop at castings. Your portfolio, digitals, and overall direction should stay aligned with the type of work you and your agency are pursuing.

I talk more about that in 7 Model Portfolio Building Mistakes Every Model Should Avoid.

But remember:

Your agent should not have to chase you around to make sure you're prepared for every opportunity.

This is professional work.

You need to show up ready.

 

12. What If You're Modeling in the Washington, DC Area or Another Smaller Market?

This is especially relevant for models here in the Washington, DC, Maryland, and Northern Virginia area, but the advice applies to models in many regional markets.

The DMV isn't New York. It's not Paris. It's not Milan. And it doesn't need to be.

Every market has its own strengths and client base.

But if your goal is eventually to work in a larger fashion market, you need to educate yourself on what those markets expect.

  • Study legitimate agency websites.
  • Look at current model digitals.
  • Watch professional runway shows.
  • Understand comp cards.
  • Learn different types of modeling.
  • Practice.
  • Build your portfolio strategically.
  • Work with experienced industry professionals.

One of the biggest mistakes you can make is assuming that because something isn't commonly taught in your local market, you don't need to know it.

You do.

Open call or model casting in progress. One model walking towards casting panel.

Frequently Asked Questions About Model Castings and Open Calls

 

What should I wear to a model open call?

Always follow the specific wardrobe instructions provided by the agency or casting team first.

If no instructions are given, wear simple, fitted, neutral clothing that allows casting professionals to clearly see your proportions and movement.

Avoid oversized clothing, excessive layers, large accessories, and anything that distracts from you.

 

Should I wear makeup to a model casting?

A blank canvas or extremely minimal makeup is generally best unless the casting specifically tells you otherwise.

Think lip gloss, barely any mascara, and a tiny amount of concealer over a blemish if needed.

That's it.

Avoid heavy foundation, contour, false lashes, bold eyeshadow, and full-glam makeup.

Casting professionals need to see your natural skin, features, and facial structure.

 

Do I need a comp card for a model open call?

Yes. Bring an updated comp card.

Your comp card should contain current images, accurate measurements, and information that represents what you look like now.

Your model digitals should also be current so agencies and clients can accurately evaluate your natural appearance.

If your digitals are outdated, you can learn more about updating them through my Model Digitals sessions.

 

What should I bring to a model casting?

Bring your current comp card, accurate measurements, appropriate shoes, identification, and any additional materials specifically requested by casting.

You may also be asked for digitals or your portfolio.

Always read the casting instructions carefully before leaving home.

 

Do I need professional photos before attending an agency open call?

Not always.

Some agencies discovering new faces specifically request simple digitals rather than professional portfolio images.

However, once you're actively building a modeling career and attending professional castings, your portfolio and marketing materials should accurately represent you and the market you are pursuing.

 

How should I walk at a runway casting?

Your runway walk should be appropriate for the designer, show, and direction you are given.

Practice your posture, pace, turns, and movement beforehand.

And remember: a pageant walk and a fashion runway walk are not necessarily the same thing.

 

What is sample size in modeling?

In many fashion and runway castings, garments have already been produced in predetermined measurements.

Casting therefore needs models who fit those garments.

Those measurements apply to that particular job and should not be interpreted as a universal body requirement for every type of modeling.

 

Can I attend a casting if I don't meet the requirements?

Read the casting notice carefully.

If a requirement is necessary for the job—such as sample measurements, age, location, or another specific qualification—respect it.

Not being appropriate for one job does NOT mean you're not appropriate for modeling.

It simply means that particular job isn't your job.

 

Are model open calls only for experienced models?

No.

Some agency open calls are specifically designed to discover new models.

Others are connected to specific jobs and may require previous experience.

Research the opportunity and read the requirements before attending.

 

How early should I arrive for a model casting?

Give yourself enough time for traffic, parking, finding the location, and checking in without rushing.

Follow the casting's arrival instructions.

Being professional does not mean arriving extremely early and disrupting the schedule.

It means being ready when you're supposed to be there.

 

What is the biggest mistake models make at castings?

One of the biggest mistakes is treating the casting casually.

A casting may only last a few minutes, but those few minutes are a professional evaluation.

Your appearance, materials, attitude, preparation, ability to listen, and ability to follow direction all contribute to the impression you make. 

Four female fashion models walk the runway in hats, sunglasses, handbags, and tailored looks during a fashion show.

Being Prepared Does NOT Mean Changing Who You Are

I want to make this very clear.

Conversations about model castings can quickly turn into arguments about body types, beauty standards, and who is “good enough” to model.

That's not what this is about.

Being prepared means:

  • Understanding the assignment.
  • Reading the requirements.
  • Bringing the correct materials.
  • Knowing your market.
  • Practicing the skills needed for the job.
  • Following direction.
  • Presenting yourself professionally.

You won't fit every casting, and you shouldn't try to.

A professional model learns where they fit, develops the skills required for that market, and arrives at appropriate opportunities ready to work.

That's the difference.

 

Build the Skills Before Your Next Casting

Preparation does not start on the morning of your casting.

It starts much earlier.

You need to understand how to present yourself, how to move in front of the camera, how to take direction, and how to build images that actually support the kind of modeling work you want to pursue.

As a professional fashion and beauty photographer in the DMV area, I work with models throughout Washington, DC, Maryland, Virginia, and beyond on:

  • Model portfolio development

  • Model digitals

  • Fashion photography

  • Beauty photography

  • Portfolio updates

 

But when you shoot with me, you're not simply standing in front of my camera while I take pictures.

I coach and direct you throughout the shoot.

We work on posing.

  • Movement.
  • Expression.
  • Angles.
  • How to take direction.
  • How small changes affect an image.

 

Also, we work on how to create photographs that actually have a purpose in your portfolio.

The goal isn't simply to leave your session with beautiful photographs.

It's to leave with stronger images and a better understanding of how to present yourself professionally as a model.

If you're preparing for future castings but your portfolio no longer represents you, your model digitals are outdated, or you're building your book for the first time, start there.

Explore my model portfolio photography and Model Digitals sessions to make sure you're presenting the strongest and most accurate version of yourself.

Final Thoughts: Treat Every Model Casting Like a Professional Opportunity

You cannot control whether you're ultimately the right model for a particular job.

Maybe someone else fits the clothes better.

Maybe the client needs an entirely different look.

Maybe the concept changed.

That's modeling.

But you CAN control how prepared you are when you walk through the door.

  • Know the casting.
  • Know your market.
  • Bring what you're supposed to bring.
  • Practice the skills you're expected to have.
  • Listen.
  • Be professional.

Then let casting make the decision.

Whether you're attending a model casting in Washington, DC, traveling to New York, or walking into a model open call in another market, preparation gives you the best opportunity to show casting professionals what you can actually do.

And if your portfolio, digitals, or overall presentation need work before your next opportunity, start there.

As a DMV fashion and beauty photographer who works closely with models, I can help you create updated images while giving you practical coaching and direction throughout your session.

Because strong images matter.

But knowing how to present yourself matters too.

You can always schedule a call with me should you have any questions.  

 

¡Hasta la vista!


 

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